Samedi 19 février 2011
Notre blog n'est pas en anglais, désolé pour nos amis anglophones alors voici un bel article d'un co blogeur du coté des USA
qui a flashé sur notre côtes de Provence rouge 2008
"One beloved model — or trope as we said in college –for winemaking is the family which makes wine on its own
land. This is the ancient dream from the Garden — a green place, hilly, the sun just on the horizon, with many generations at work together. But it is a big world, and there are other
visions at play among us.
One of the most intriguing is the young négociant who focuses on the winemaking side of things, buying grapes
and remaining free to invent a mash-up of equipment, tradition, technique, and style. In the world but not bound by it.
Emanuelle Dupéré, a singer, and Laurent Barrera, a geological engineer, abandoned their day jobs for wine
school and went into the wine business in Provence in 2000. Their wines rely on the traditional Rhône blend: the workhorse Grenache with the lunatic uncle Mourvèdre, the spicy
aunt Cinsault, the sweet, daffy sister Syrah … we know this family. To these are added a stranger to the region: Cabernet Sauvignon. The young négociants bring an enthusiasm for
craft. Old barrels purchased from famous vineyards, great care in handling the young wine (no pumping, filtering, or fining) and close attention to the state of the moon. (Don’t knock
what you don’t understand.)
The result is rather splendid. I tried the 2008 Côtes de Provence. A Rhône without that briar-y
rasp, that faintly nasal tone which is the taste marker for the region. This one runs smooth and deep. Blackberry is a reasonable estimate of the flavor, but what you will love is the
authority and friendly grip of the wine.
The label promises Très Longue Macération — skins and pulp in contact with the fresh juice for as long as 7
weeks, the stems removed to limit the tannins. The trombone qualities of the cabernet are welcome here — stabilizing and foundational. Too international?
Have we strayed too far from local wine? No, this is a free expression, built with care. I gave
myself up for lost and bought six bottles.
Merci à Geoffrey Crawford pour cet article, n'hésitez pas à pratiquer votre anglais sur son blog de passionné de
vins à cette adresse :